but it is worth a try since it will
save you from having to remove
the horn mechanism if the wheel
does come loose.
If that fails, I remove the
three screws holding the horn
in place and carefully lift the
horn cup from the recess in the
steering wheel. Care here will
help when you put it all back
in place, since the screws are
located in a plastic tube with
all three of them held together
with a small plastic string. Keep
them together and you will find
it easier to replace them without
causing the horn to blast continuously from placing pressure
on the bottom of the cup. The
tubes holding the screws fit into
openings in the cup and prevent
the screws from hitting metal,
which would set off the horn as
well. Just be careful and it can
be done without embarrassment
to you or your customer.
Under the horn assembly you
will find the same set up found in
the before mentioned pad. The
spring-loaded connection I talked
about can be seen in the lower
right corner of photo 5. Remove it
and set it aside in a safe place.
With the horn assembly
removed you will need to pull
the steering wheel. Since you
already tried the leg trick, I sug-
gest going right to the puller,
(see photo 6). The puller is placed
over the center of the post and
two bolts are threaded into the
body of the steering wheel. I sug-
gest at least six turns of the bolts
should be used to make sure the
threads don’t pull out if the wheel
is especially tight. The two bolts
are visible in photo 6.
When the wheel gives up
the fight, place it aside and you
will find a dust cover looking
you right in the face, (see photo
7). Some will have three small
screws holding them in place
and some will have three open-
3. The horn mechanism.
4. A small snap ring.
5. The spring-loaded connection.