6. In this photo the keylock’s cam/tailpiece is in the
locked position (horizontal): it blocks retraction of the
boltwork. When the keylock is unlocked, its tailpiece
turns vertical where it no longer blocks the boltwork.
8. Here the “regular” key has been rotated clockwise
(as viewed from the outside of the safe). The keylock
cam/tailpiece no longer blocks the boltwork, but the
handle cannot be turned because the solenoid is still
in the locked position. The code needs to be entered
to retract the solenoid, which will in turn raise the
teeter-totter so that it no longer blocks the boltwork,
at which point the handle can be turned.
10. Earlier in this article, we did remove the bezel
and drill a hole just above the keylock. Here is
where the hole comes through on the inside. We
have inserted an “L” wire into the hole. (Actually we
inserted a “U” wire into the hole and pulled back on
it to make the “U” into an “L”.)
9. Here the “master” key has been rotated coun-
ter-clockwise (as viewed from the outside of the
safe). When the master key is used, the code does
NOT need to be entered, because the master key
bypasses everything. When the master key is rotated
counterclockwise, its tailpiece/cam raises the teeter-totter, and the handle can be thrown. Hint: if you
are locked out, pick the keylock CCW!
11. You can use an “L” wire to raise the teeter-totter, as seen in this photo, but the keylock itself will
still block the boltwork. In retrospect, picking the
cylinder CCW is absolutely the way to go. And if that
fails, perhaps the best last-resort option is to drill
the shear line. See you next month!
